As innovative and experimental as Japanese label Sacai may be, at it’s heart is a desire to transform classical, basic garments into timeless and elegant staple items that can easily transition from one occasion to the next. Designer Chitose Abe established the line in 1999 after eight years working on the Junya Watanabe line for Comme Des Garçons, and has become known for her clever play with shape and proportion, as well as her juxtaposition of contrasting fabrics and textures. Unique and well crafted, these careful renderings of classic styles create a refreshing and distinctive alternative to conventional menswear.
Chitose Abe returns for Fall/Winter 2017 with a very interesting concept for her collection. Adopting a literary style known as splicing or the "cut up" technique, introduced by T.S. Eliot’s poem The Waste Land and then cemented as a genre by W.S. Burroughs, the technique focuses on the random juxtaposition of words to create new meanings. For Burroughs, this meant quite literally cutting up existing texts so as to properly create a new work, essentially as a form of literary rebirth. The same concept is applied by Abe in regards to her fall/winter collection. Garments are constructed using supposedly random fabrics and materials, although it is hard to look at any individual piece and describe its beauty as accidental. Stand out pieces include a cut up denim shirt, a digi came field jacket featuring faux fur, and wool herringbone trousers with velvet detailing. Abe proves yet again that she is more than capable of maintaining sacai’s position as one of the most interesting and desirable Japanese brands available.
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